Llama is really the only large domesticable animal indigenous to South America (most of the livestock familiar to us were domesticated in and around the fertile crescent way back in the day. Hence the leg up those societies, and surrounding societies like those formed in Europe, had on exploration, colonization and domination. Read Jared Diamond's incredible book, Guns, Germs and Steel, if this stuff interests you). So llama meat might have been the most Argentinian food I encountered. And I tried some. Pretty tasty, I must admit.
Rivaling llama meat for most "authentic" food I found is definitely the empanada. Yummy little pastry pockets filled with all sorts of goodness, from cheese to veggies to meat. Unfortunately, it is all too easy to get bad or mediocre empanadas, which happened to us for most of the trip. But, oh! then we found the money spot: La Casa de las Empanadas in the city of Cafayate. Incredible. My favorite was filled with onions and blue cheese. So good! So if you are ever in the area, definitely hit up La Casa de las Empanadas!
Otherwise, Argentina is very similar to the States in that it is a cultural melting pot. Modern Argentina, so to speak, began with Spanish colonizers in the 16th century (although there were, of course, peoples already settled there), thus accounting for the use of the Spanish language. From then on, many different European influences moved in to create what is Argentina today. This mixing of cultures is, at least to a degree, reflected in the cuisine. For instance, there is a very strong Italian influence, and so lots of pastas, gnocchi and pizza.
It was tough to find really good vegetarian meals, unfortunately. Most meatless meals were either bland and flavorless or over-salted. There was, however, one gem we found in the city of Salta called Chirimoya. Amazing little appetizers, eggplant lasagna, and quinoa salad (and much more!). All vegan, all amazing, and really inexpensive.
And in addition to food, there was, of course, lots of RED WINE. Argentina has world famous wine, and we tried our best to sample as much as possible. Oh, and it was very alcoholic.
And what's wine without cheese?
And what's any of it really worth without some well-dressed Argentinian wine and cheese connoisseur to tell you all about it?
Overall, I guess I have this to say: The food system, as we know, is global, so Argentina gets their food from distant lands just like we do. There were street markets but they did not really reflect nearby farms, but it is winter there so that can be expected. Much of the farmland, as I understand it, is used for one of Argentina's main crops, sugar cane, and other exported goods like cereals and oils.
And, like I said, they eat a lot of meat, so I asked some locals what that industry is like there. Not surprisingly, it is the same factory farming deal as you would find anywhere in the world today.
I was slightly disappointed but not surprised to find the food in Argentina rarely reflected any special culture that you might find there (except for, perhaps, the mixing of European influences). It did not often tell a story of the people or the land. Sadly it is, at least in my experience (and I could always try harder!) more and more difficult to come by local food no matter where you go. But, hey, what can you do? Stay positive and tell a story with the food you find whenever you can, I suppose.
Buen provecho!
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